Peptides/Skin and hair
Argireline
Also sold as Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Acetyl hexapeptide-3
Marketed as topical Botox for expression lines. It does relax muscle signalling, but a cream reaches nowhere near as deep as an injection.
At a glance
What people use it for
- Softening forehead lines and crow's feet
- A needle-free alternative to injectables
- Maintaining results between Botox appointments
How it is taken
Applied to the skin in a serum or cream, usually at 5% to 10%.
Evidence
Mixed human evidence
Good to know
- The effect is modest and temporary compared with an injection
- Mild irritation in sensitive skin
- Works best alongside sunscreen and a retinoid rather than instead of them
Argireline is a six amino acid chain designed to interfere with the same signalling pathway that botulinum toxin blocks, the one that tells a muscle to contract. Hence the nickname.
What people use it for
Expression lines, particularly across the forehead and around the eyes. It appeals to people who want something in that direction without needles, and to people stretching the gap between appointments.
What the evidence shows
The mechanism is real. Studies have shown reductions in wrinkle depth with regular use, often in the range of 15% to 30% over a month or two, and the compound genuinely does what it says at the cellular level.
The catch is delivery. Botulinum toxin is injected directly into the muscle. A cream has to cross the outer layer of skin and reach far enough down to matter, and peptides are large and water-loving, which is the worst combination for skin penetration. Most independent assessments put the real-world effect as noticeable but small.
What to know before
Treat it as a good supporting act rather than a replacement. It sits well in a routine alongside sunscreen and a retinoid, both of which have far stronger evidence for lines.
Look at the percentage on the label. Products advertising the ingredient without a concentration are usually using very little of it.
Last reviewed .